Where to eat in Todos Santos.

A restaurant inside the palm grove off Calle Centenario, run by chef Aurelien Legeay of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France: Mediterranean ideas, French technique and local produce (Gourmet de México), on a menu that, as the MICHELIN Guide puts it, "changes with the moon cycle." Lunch is open-air under the palms; dinner is candlelit, with the sounds of the oasis. Oxtail in red wine, potato ravioli with smoked mackerel, a tasting menu with wine pairing.

An elevated oyster bar inside Santa Terra, the creative compound built around the old sugar mill. The MICHELIN Guide praises "excellent oysters that range from meaty and juicy to tender and minerally," served with several sauces. Ask for the back patio.

The restaurant of Paradero, open to non-guests. Local farm ingredients lead — soft-shell crab, and a manchamantel mole the MICHELIN Guide describes as "spicy, sweet, and fruity" — cooked partly in a Oaxacan clay oven. Dinner, after the light goes, is the moment.

Hotel San Cristóbal's "breezy indoor/outdoor spot for all-day fare with an enviable coastal view" (MICHELIN Guide), on the sand at Punta Lobos. The catch of the day comes with an herb and pumpkin-seed sauce; the churros are made in house.

At the end of the dirt road on Playa La Pastora, next to Villa Santa Cruz: barefoot service, tables in the sand, tostadas and ceviche, cold beer and margaritas while the sun drops into the Pacific. In winter, whales from your chair.

A restaurant on a cliff with "a 270-degree view of the ocean" — "dinner on the edge of the world," where each table has its own view. Mediterranean-leaning cooking with local ingredients: wild shrimp and New York strip served on a hot stone, grilled catch of the day. Open daily 1–9 pm; come about an hour before sunset.

Mexican-Mediterranean cooking with open-air, well-shaded seating — ceviche and pineapple carpaccio are the dishes people mention.

The beach club of Hotel Guaycura, with infinity pool, restaurant and spa on the coast — a family beach day with service.

Chef Javier Plascencia's garden restaurant: a wood-fired menu (the roasted bone marrow is a classic) among the vegetable rows. Reservations required.

Argentine cooking around a wood-fired hearth in the centre: meats, empanadas and a slow asado.

The town's Italian: salads, wood-fired pizza and homemade pasta.

Traditional Mexican cooking on a central patio with a serious cactus garden.

The town's best-known building, on Calle Juárez: courtyard lunch, a mezcal at the bar, a shop of Mexican design.

Fish, shrimp and octopus tacos, a coconut-battered shrimp taco and house salsas (mango, pineapple-habanero).

Carnitas for breakfast, the local way — a Bon Traveler pick.

A block from Hotel California: uncomplicated Mexican food and people you know.

Smash burgers visitors keep ranking among their best anywhere.

The brunch address — eggs, juices and a long table on a slow morning.

A small coffee and pastry house — croissants, salted walnut chocolate-chip cookies — that Bon Traveler calls the best coffee in town.

Coffee and pastries in a garden of palms, wine in the evening — the de-facto office of the town's remote workers.

Plant-based bakery and "conscious cooking" classes at the eco-hotel north of town.

A three-hour Mexican cooking class in the heart of town; reservation required.

The only Bib Gourmand on this coast: a farm-to-table kitchen in the fields of El Pescadero where, in the MICHELIN Guide's words, "cooking is simplified to allow the ingredients to take center stage." Tables sit in the garden, under umbrellas and palms; lunch is the moment.

The resort on the Pescadero coast — formerly Rancho Pescadero — runs three restaurants and an oceanfront bar (MICHELIN Guide). The hotel is adults-only; if you are not staying, call ahead about tables.

Japanese, Chinese and Thai flavours with Baja ingredients, in an open-air palapa with sushi and martini bars; the chef's own farm supplies produce and poultry. "Absolutely worth the drive."

By km 62 of the highway: local oysters, ceviche, whole grilled fish, wood-fired pizza, craft beer and cocktails — and live music most weeks.

At the end of a dirt road: wood-fired pizza, pasta and salads, all outdoors, under the stars.

A garden restaurant in El Pescadero where most of what you eat was picked a few metres away. Lunch under the trees is the classic.

A coffee roaster with a big garden; in high season it hosts the Sunday farmers market — produce, bread, crafts and half the valley.

A beach restaurant at Cerritos with string lights, a full bar and live music on the sand at sunset — regional Mexican cooking and fresh seafood, with the hacienda on the point behind you. The Cerritos branch of La Tuna from El Sargento.

The taco bar on the public beach at Cerritos: beer-battered fish and shrimp tacos, carne asada, fish burritos and serious margaritas, with live music.

The dressed-up dinner in Cerritos: Mediterranean-inspired seafood and steaks, grilled octopus and craft cocktails, with ocean views and a chic room.

Sushi and contemporary Baja cooking — tamarind shrimp, roasted-poblano risotto — inside a private condo community; upscale, unpretentious.

The surfers' palapa: fish tacos, wood-fired burgers and ribs, open-mic and live music nights.

Authentic Mexican food — chiles rellenos, homemade salsas — and the friendliest service on the strip.

Beach-bar energy on the sand: ceviche, cocktails and volleyball tournaments.

Grilled mahi-mahi and seared tuna at a hotel restaurant with a day pass to the pool — stylish, relaxed.

Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza and house wine with one of the best sunset views in Cerritos.

Thai curries, noodles and stir-fries — the change from tacos, easy to take home.

Made-to-order sandwiches from a truck at the beach access — the post-surf lunch.

Smoothies and a quick bite near Playa Los Cerritos, after a surf.

A community coffee shop whose profits fund a local dog rescue. Walk a dog, adopt one.